Cork - The Rebel County, Part 1

County Cork is the home of my mom. When my brother, sister and I were small, she would take us back to Ireland each summer so that we would know our roots, our cousins, and to give her a chance to reconnect with her friends and family. My first time to Ireland, I was just six months old. I continued to go to Ireland each year until I turned 13. Then I went back 13 years later and wow, what a difference. Ireland's years as an economic force (known as the Celtic Tiger) really showed. So much development around the country, and a more cosmopolitan population base. It's been eight years since I've been back, and with the global economy on the downturn, Ireland's reputation as the tiger softened. 

I wanted to come back to visit my family, and in particular, my cousin Eibhlis (points if you can pronounce her name) whom I've been corresponding via letters since we were both 10 years old. Our correspondence has been going strong for over 20 years now! I'm fairly certain that both of us still have all our letters over the years, if scattered about in many boxes around our respective homes. Eibhlis offered to put me up for about a week and to take me around Cork to see the sites. I think she enjoyed playing tourist in her own city, as we did things she's never done before :)

Day one we went into Cork city for lunch and to the English Market. We had a very tasty meal in a creperie that is new to the city. Their savoury crepes are made with buckwheat and are very filling. Highly recommended if you're in Cork and love crepes (I know I do!)

Walking around the streets of Cork is a pleasure. It was bustling for a Monday afternoon. You can see the spires of Saint Finbar's (local patron saint) from almost anywhere.

After some errands, we trudged up the hill to St Ann's Anglican Church in Shandon, where you can play the bells and get a fantastic view of a Cork below. The church gives you protective earmuffs as the bells are so loud when climbing up to the viewing deck. I got to play "When the Saints Go Marching In" and Eibhlis played "Freire Jacques." We were complimented on our playing by other visitors, and Eibhlis looked over at me slyly and reminded me that the whole city could hear us play! 

 

 

Here is the church bell tower, and below I'm playing the bells for all of Cork to hear.

After playing the bells, we headed to the Cork City Gaol (or jail). This gaol was in operation in the 19th century until it closed in 1923. The gaol was for petty criminals who's crimes ranged from drunkeness in public to fraud. Often, poor folk would try to land themselves in this gaol because they were guaranteed to have a roof over their heads, two meals a day, and access to a doctor. Being imprisioned was preferable to life on the streets during the famine years. The gaol still has all the records from when it was in operation, so the guided tour was fascinating - real stories of real people. A few tales stand out: a woman who had been incarcerated 57 times for public drunkeness and beating her children was sentenced to hard labour of breaking rocks for 8 hours a day with no break; the 8 year old pickpocket who was flogged so hard so that his scars would serve as a reminder not to steal (he was only in the prison once thank goodness); and of course, the Irish Republican Nationals from the war of independence (1916 - 1923) as the gaol (and the country) was run by the English. 

One funny note of interest, the Govenor of the prison did not want to live inside the prison like the rest of the guards and their families, so he had a tunnel built under the prison and across to where his house was. If any senior justice officials would be seen approaching the prison, he would scurry through the tunnel back inside the prison. Eventually an inspector discovered the tunnel, and ordered it to be collapsed. To date, it is the only prison tunnel in the world not built by a convict trying to escape! 

Here is a sketch done by one of the Irish Republicans on the wall of a cell. There are names and ranks of the IRA written and scratched into the walls of the cells. The Republicans were all released in 1923 and the gaol was closed. This gaol is fascinating place and well worth the visit!