Much ado about Málaga

Málaga is a pretty port city on the eastern Andalusian coast. It, like other cities on my journey, was a former Roman colony where fish was the primary commodity. The city has a few archeological sites of import - an exposed Roman amphitheatre at the foot of the 8-11th century CE Alcazaba - but is essentially a modern city. The main draw of tourists to Málaga is it's beaches, of which there are several very close to the downtown core. I was glad to arrive at the beginning of October when the majority of the beach going tourists had vacated the city. My hostel (Patio 19) was fairly quiet as a result, but I didn't mind having a bit of relaxation after running around both Seville and Córdoba.

To get acquainted with the town, I went on the free walking tour arranged by another hostel (the Oasis). Unfortunately, the walking tour guide (who was Italian) didn't have the best English, so it was difficult to follow along with what he was saying. I probably didn't help matters by correcting his English idioms but as a former English language teacher, I only wanted to assist him as he struggled to narrate our tour. We started in the main square, the Plaza de la Constitucion (next two photos).

Afterwards, he took us to the Cathedral, which has the nickname of the La Manquita or "one-armed lady" as the cathedral was to have two matching bell towers but funds as the time of its building were diverted to California. When funds became available, the church decided not to complete the second bell tower because the locals all knew the cathedral by its nickname, and colloquialism trumped completion-ism. After seeing many churches & cathedrals along my winding road of a journey, I decided to save my money and skip visiting this one. Here are a few shots of the outside of the cathedral.

Below: stained glass adorns the entrance to the public market. There is a dazzling display of produce, fungi, Málaga almonds, and fish. The market closes by 2pm.

Málaga is the birthplace of the father of cubism - Pablo Picasso. He lived there until about age 16 when he went off to art school. He last was in Málaga for Christmas during his 20th year before going to Paris, where he was influenced by the French school of painting. Critics say that Picasso really became an artist in Paris, that it matured his style. The Meseo Picasso Málaga displays a broad spectrum of his works in various media and styles. It was his express wish that a museum be founded in his home town, and his daughter-in-law and grandson made that wish a reality. The museum is open every day until 8pm except Mondays, and an adult ticket costs €8 with €1 for an audioguide (well worth it in my opinion). The museum's best feature is a film about Picasso's life,where you can see this quirky artist entertaining guests and working, while the narrator (in English with Spanish subtitles) describes parts of his life and the evolution of his artwork. Picasso is best known for developing cubism, but he really did paint in every style and dabbled with ceramics and sculpture. The visit takes approximately two hours.

The other thing Málaga is known for is their sweet wines, particularly Pedro Ximen. There are three varieties of this Málaga wine: dry white, sweet (almost like a tawny port), and semi-sweet, which is a blend of the other two. I had the opportunity to taste all three varieties during my walking tour at a wine bar called Antigua Casa de Guardia which has been in business since 1840 and four generations of the same family work there. A glass of wine costs only €1.40, and it's for this reason that the bar closes by 7pm to dissuade folks from coming in at night to get drunk for cheap. You can source these wines at local bars around town as well. My favourite was the semi-sweet wine. 

Below: the excavated Roman amphitheatre and Moorish Alcázba rising above it, lit up at night in downtown Málaga.

The food in Málaga varies greatly depending on where you eat and how much you are willing to pay. I had only one meal that really pleased my palette, which was at the Mesón de Cervantes which is affiliated with a restaurant literally 30 feet away (Tapeos de Cervantes). There I had some very tasty tapas, wine, and a desert to die for. Most nights, I made myself a giant salad from fixings derived at the local supermarket, and washed down with a cheap (€2.65) but great Roja wine. Thank goodness for kitchens in hostels!

Below: the very delectable meal I had at Mesón de Cervantes (cost around €14).

On my fourth day in Málaga, I rented a bicycle for an entire day (€10) to go to the beach. I wanted to cycle outside of the town as I was informed by my walking tour guide that the city's beaches were artificial, and I wanted to have some more peace and quiet. The bike ride along the beach is a pedestrian/cycling route only, which made it not only safe, but enjoyable as well. I cycled for about an hour and spotted a nice sheltered beach with coves on both sides which made it great for swimming. The water was crystal clear and very salty. The views reminded me so much of Mexico, I wonder if the Spanish felt at home there when they first landed. All the beaches along the waterfront are wheelchair accessible, and most have accessible toilets as well.

The day before I left Málaga, I took in the Museo de Artes Populaire in the former Mesón de la Victoria inn (18th century). This museum depicts the life and culture of Málaga in the 18th and 19th centuries in terms of farming, clothing, crafts, and religion. Entrance costs €4 for an adult but no audioguide is available (which would have greatly enhanced the experience in my opinion). A few items stood out from my visit:

Above: a press to pound grapes into the delicious sweet wines the region is famous for.

Below: raisin box liners from Málaga - I think this looks like a work of art. It's hard to imagine it lining a lowly raisin box.

Below: a dress from the 19th century that would've been worn by a bourgeoisie woman. I thought it was stunning to behold. 

On my last night in Málaga, I went with two ladies from my hostel to take in a live music show (which sadly wasn't flamenco) at the famous Bodega El Pimpi where many famous Andalusian (like Málaga-born António Banderas) frequent to sign the wine barrels. I think Banderas actually added the new upstairs modern section as his last name is written on a life-ring mounted on the wall. No visit to Málaga would be complete without a visit to this bar/restaurant. It's sandwhiched between the Alcázba and the Picasso Foundation. 

I was hoping to have another beach day before I left for Morocco, but alas, 'twas not meant to be. I did however, manage to squeeze in a day trip to Ronda, which shall be the subject of my next blog post.