Above: the Arco da Vila, built in the 1812 by an Italian architect. The portico is originally Moorish (the only one of its kind in the Algarve), and served as a part of the protective walls encircling the old town. Three items of note: the statue over the arch is of Saint Thomas Aquinas, patron saint of Faro; secondly, see those large birds and nests on the top and left of the arch? Those are storks nesting! The birds are protected and cannot be removed though their droppings are negatively effecting the structure; and lastly, the tourist office is just adjacent (to the left) of the arch for landmark purposes.
Above: the roundabout near the Palácio Bivarin at sunset. My hotel was just left of this frame. I treated myself to four nights here because I badly needed a break from the dorm life of hostels.
Wandering around Faro without any real designs of what I wanted to see on my first day lead to some lovely sites around the old part of town. Here are a couple snapshots from my meandering walk:
Above: a beautiful flowering tree (possibly bougainvillea?) in a broken pot holds court over this little street.
Below: these two gents were outside near my hotel every morning playing an assortment of folk and famous songs (like "When the Saints Go Marchin In") and they were very good. Definitely a pair of characters.
My second day in Faro, I went to the beach (or Praia in Portugese). The beach lays just beyond the airport (the bus #16 costs €2.22 one way) and is one of the longest beaches I've ever visited in all my travels. I walked for miles before finding a spot, built three little "walls" of sand to shelter me from the gusty winds and relaxed. The beach is located alongside the Mediterranean Ocean, and despite knowing Morroco was in that direction, there was no hint of it. Only two weeks now until that part of my journey!
Below: On my way back, I was feeling revitalized after being overtired from traveling and walking. I took a photo of my footprints disappearing into the surf. Everything changes, everything passes away, everything is transient. The only time that exists is the present moment...
My third day in Faro, I took a day trip to the very pretty town of Tavira, which will be the subject of my next post. Stay tuned.
For my last full day in Faro, I decided to try and squeeze in the main sights of the town.
Below: on the left of the frame is the view of the Moorish Castle (which is poorly maintained and not open to visitors) and the marshlands beyond from the top of the tower of the Sé (cathedral). The marshlands are considered to be one of the 7 Wonders of Portugal, and are a wintering ground for many species of waterfowl such as Cattle Egrets, the Purple Grallinule, and the Red-Crested Pochard. I unfortunately didn't see any of these birds as I arrived in the wrong season. Apparently Flamingoes also winter here.
Faro has been the Capitol of the Algarve since 1756. Like other towns and cities in Portugal, it was previously a Roman settlement (as early as the 7th century BCE), and it's name was Ossonoba. It changed hands several times over the centuries, being an important Moorish port before it was recaptured by the Portugese King Afonso III in 1249. It was then sacked and burned by the Earl of Essex (favourite of Queen Elizabeth I) in 1596. The city was rebuilt, only to be damaged by the great earthquake in Lisbon in 1755, and the fact that Faro is about 300 kilometres from Lisbon shows the magnatude of that quake.
Below: a rather austere statue of Dom Afonso III, Portuguese conquerer of Faro, just outside the Museu Municipal.
Next two photos: Housed within the Museu Municipal (entry is €2 for the exhibits only) is a huge mosaic depicting Oceanus/Neptune flanked by the North and West winds. This mosaic was originally discovered near the train station in Faro in 1926 but wasn't extracted until 50 years later. Unfortunately, the mosaic was damaged in the 20's when it was first being excavated. The mosaic was commissioned by four individuals during the Roman settlement circa 3rd century BCE. It's size indicates the weath of the town at the time. On the adjoining wall is an artist's depiction of what the completed mosaic would've looked like.
I decided that it I also wanted to see the Recital de Guitarra Portuguesa in the Mesuem (an additional €3), which consisted of a slideshow/video exhibition of the history of the Portugese guitar and demonstrations of the various types of Fado and original compositions by a local guitar player. This exhibit/recital was worth the extra €3 as it gave a great overview of both the instrument (which is similar to a citar with its twelve strings), luthiers, and it's cultural importance in Portugal.
There are two types of Fado: Lisbon and Coimbra styles. Fado originated in Lisbon by the poor people (Maria Severa was one of the founders), and Fado means destiny. Often the poor people would sing about the harsh realities (or destinies) of their lives. Fado, as I mentioned in my blog entry about Coimbra, expresses soudade or the feelings of loss/longing. The Fado of Coimbra is considered more elitist because it's sung about university life, and is more formal (with no clapping during performances), and only men may sing Fado in Coimbra (sexism, in my opinion). Whereas the Fado of Lisbon is more informal, being founded in the poorer classes.
Below: a local Portugese guitar master João (didn't get his last name) demonstrating the passion of Fado. I bought the CD for €10, because it was honestly that good! His guitar is made in Coimbra style with its longer neck and tear-shaped finial.
The Sé of Faro is also known as the Santa Maria Chruch, and was originally located on the site of a mosque. The mosque was destroyed during the Portugese reconquest, and the cathedral was built on its location. The building has undergone many revisions to its architecture due to the transference of the archdiocese from Silves to Faro in 1577, the devasting fires caused by Robert Devereux (2nd Earl of Essex) during the British attacks in 1596, and then of course, the earthquake of 1755. What remains today is a mixture of Medaeval (the tower façade), gothic, and baroque periods.
Below: the exterior of the Sé from the main square in the old part of town.
Above: one of the side-chapels inside the cathedral dedicated to Santa Maria. Check out the ornate azulejo tile works, they stretch all the way up into the archways of the ceiling overhead.
Below: the stunning 18th century organ covered with Chinese motifs. Concerts are given on this organ, but none where happening when I visited the cathedral. A pity really, I would've love to hear this magnificent organ sing and resound against the high arches of the cathedral's ceiling.
Below: Apart of the cathedral complex are two exterior chapels. One is dedicated to Saint Michael, slayer of the serpent, and another small one called the Chapel of the Bones where the altarpiece is comprised of human bones and skulls - some are relics.
Below: a photo of myself on my last day in Faro taken outside the old walls of the city.
I would definitely recommend visiting Faro if one is planning on visiting the Algarve. It's proximity to other gorgeous towns, it's history, and charm are not to be missed. I may be back one day...
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